Si no se quiere hacer ese proceso se puede imprimir normal y lijar luego con papel, queda bien también. Se ha hecho así porque quería un acabado lo más suave posible, pero el planchado me dejaba algo de material en los bordes del agujero y con este diseño se puede evitar eso planchando por completo dos capas intermedias. Tiene un diseño de tres capas principales, la del fondo del agujero de los botones select y start, la del fondo del agujero de la cruceta y los botones a y b y la superior. Se ha diseñado desde cero excepto la parte trasera que es la de makho con algunos refuerzos en los soportes de los tornillos y los agujeros un pelín más grandes, el marco de la pantalla se ha agrandado y centrado, el original me dio problemas. It has also a thin zone over the led area that if you use a non dark material you can see slightly the led light.Ĭarcasa para game boy macro o GBA lite inspirada en la boxy pixel diseñada para los que quieran hacerse una en plástico. If you use the split model just glue it together with a non instant glue in order to have time to align the two parts. But someone with soluble supports will do it perfectly with the complete model. The problem is that the electronics face is a big flat part that is full of screw pillars, so the supports are diffcult to remove and I couldn't obtain a real flat frame on the screen bezel, even using support interface. I made the split one because the complete one should be printed face up due the fact that there is no room for supports if you print it face down and also the visible part results in a non desiderable surface. There are two versions for the faceplate, a complete one and a split one. The faceplate has room only for the lcd screen, the touch screen should be removed. Anyway you can also print it as usual and won't have any problem further than the listed one and can be solved with a soft sanding. With this desing you can make a complete ironed intermediate layer and avoid this issue just with two ironing layers. It has been created this way because I wanted a smooth surface, and the ironing process leave a tiny accumulation of material in the borders of the hollows. One is the bottom of the hollow for the select and start button, the other is the one for the d-pad and a/b buttons, that is the one in where the top and bottom faceplate's cuts are and the third one is the top layer. The part has a desing of three principal layers. The screen frame has been also enlarged and centered, I had issues with the original one. Показать большеĮxcept the backpart, that is the makho one with some reinforcements in the screw holes and the holes a little bit bigger than the originals. Comes in a choice of colours shown in the photos.This is a faceplate for a game boy macro/GBA lite mod inspired in the boxy pixel desing for those who want to make one in plastic. Drop me a message with the colour you want after purchase The buttons will need to be trimmed but that's easy to do and expanded in the link below How to prepare the speaker 3d printed faceplate to turn your original nintendo ds (ds phat) into a gameboy macro. Comes in a choice of colours shown in the photos. 3d printed faceplate to turn your original nintendo ds (ds phat) into a gameboy macro. I got a set from the 99 Cent Store, among other stores. You can get these from various on-line shops, I got mine from Amazon. This cannot be done with a DSi, as it has no GBA slot. Item: 265954431042 DS - DS phat - Gameboy Macro XL 3d printed faceplate. Things you will need for a basic build: 1.
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